Go into any office and knock on the walls. At 95%, it’ll be drywall. What we’re gonna make room dividers out of is drywall, of course. This answer can often be heard from the mouths of masters. As drywall is a very popular material in construction, the methods of its “assembly” are constantly being improved. In this article we will consider how to make a drywall partition in a completely new and reliable way.
Parameters
Partition length – 5 m, height – 2.5 m, width – 10 cm. The assembly of the structure will be made of a 50×40 mm guiding profile. The plasterboard will be 12.5 mm in two layers. The first layer of drywall will be installed horizontally. The second layer is vertical. We will also install 5 cm thick insulation.
Markup
Let’s measure from the wall with a tape measure where the partition will stand. Set the laser level “crab” on the floor. Press the right button to have the laser show lines on the ceiling, wall and floor. When the surfaces are smooth, we “chop” the marks with a “chop” cord; if not, we mark them with a marker or pencil along laser lines so that the guides “lie down” exactly, along well-defined lines.
Frame Installation
We already have lines on the ceiling, walls and floor. We glue the acoustic damper tape to the profile rails at the back, i.e. at the bottom. This is done by the noise vibrations that pass through the walls and floor. Then these rails are installed on the ceiling, floor and walls. And here’s the interesting thing: instead of rack profiles, we will use the same 50×40 mm guide rail, only twisted with press washers between them. Since we have a height of 2.5 m, we cut two profile guides 50×40 mm to 2.5 m. We twist them together so that the ribs look out. When installing the profiles vertically, we step every 60 cm. The guides at the joints are connected to each other by a glider (very often the masters twist the press puck, and then there are irregularities in these places). Why do I have to twist a 50×40 mm profile between them? In the usual construction we put a rack profile, which is 5 cm where two sheets of drywall will be joined together. When we twist the edges of one sheet, the screw will enter the profile where there is rigidity. But when we screw up the second sheet, the screws will bend the profile and the drywall in this place will bend. It’s a common flaw in this method. When we install a 50 x 40 mm double guide profile, this gives an 8 cm end side where the drywall will be very well and securely fixed. The 50 x 40 mm cross section guides are “double” as are the vertical guides. We’re gonna have them fastened every meter. You will get an opening of 1 m by 60 cm where you can easily insert the minwat. The result is a structure where the profiles are installed in 60 cm increments.
We haven’t rolled up the drywall yet, but the frame is already very strong. Which you can’t tell when we put together a frame the usual way. All masters know: until you twist up the drywall, the frame is weak. And by our new method without twisting drywall, the frame becomes a “monolith”. All joints between the transversal and vertical profiles are cross-linked with a shredder.
Installation of drywall
We install the first layer of drywall horizontally. The second layer is vertical. Useful tip: on the first layer of drywall a lot of screws do not screw up, because there will be a second layer, where we screw up completely. This method is practiced by many masters. Because it’s reliable and practical. Plasterboard structures are constantly being improved. I don’t know who invented this method of frame assembly. But he’s definitely better than the one before that.
